5.4. What is the wavelength? This is because offshore winds help to hold the face of the wave up and open, to provide a smooth, surfable surface. a. The center of mass of the Earth-Moon system is called the ____. A storm surge b. 54. In a reflected wave, the angle of incidence equals the angle of reflection for wave direction. d. Tides in the northern hemisphere are largest during winter. Of the following offshore ocean conditions, which one(s) would likely produce spilling breakers? C. surf A wave train is caused by wave energy moving more slowly than individual waves. Because a rip current carries sediment out to sea, water in the rip current may appear a different color than the surrounding water (Fig. What happened to the Screen Junkies Show? -Wave amplitude remains the same as depth increases. What results when two waves, in phase and with the same wavelength, interact? Four common types of surfing breaks include beach, point, reef, and river mouth: Tides can dramatically affect the quality of surf because they influence both water motion and the relative depth of the bottom contour. Exploring Our Fluid Earth, a product of the Curriculum Research & Development Group (CRDG), College of Education. 5.20. What physical factors affect the magnitude of a gravitational force? What can cause a car to vibrate at high speed? What type of sediment is the most abundant by surface area? water is pushed farther inland when the shore is gently sloping, the current flowing parallel to and just offshore to a beach is called. High tides and low tides occur at the same time every day for a geographic location. -Wave refraction at the headland increases deposition at the headland and causes erosion in adjacent bays. -the distance between the highest and lowest part of the wave How does water affect the rate of chemical weathering? . are formed when electrons are shared by atoms. Are 0333 numbers included in free minutes? Arrows represent direction of incoming wave fronts. Waves converge on headlands due to _____. -Waves in phase have different wavelengths and are aligned peak-to-trough and trough-to-peak Fig. e.The gravitational attraction among the oceans, mountains, and the moon. Landforms created by erosion include, Erosion is a natural process which shapes cliffs . -When waves with identical wavelengths interfere. The Gulf Stream is an example of which of the following currents? Fig. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. -A wave with an amplitude that is the sum of the amplitudes of the initial two waves. Why do ships at sea tend not to notice tsunamis? If the side of the Earth that faces the Moon experiences a high tide, then the side of the Earth that is opposite from the Moon will have a ________. In Figure 8A-1, the western, Figure 8A-3 - https://www.ametsoc.org/amsedu/ds-ocean/oos_images/InvManImgs2021/Fig08A-3a.jpg "At middle and low latitudes of both the Southern and Northern Hemispheres in Figure 8A-3, coastal areas, The September-October wind pattern transports coastal surface waters ______ producing ______. Where few streams bringing in lithogenous sediment. The energy of waves help to shape coastal features. -the highest part of the wave Tsunami are undetectable by ships in the open ocean. Why do people generally install a groin along their beach-front property? -Havoc waves What landforms are formed inland by erosion? The low parts of the waves are called ____. All Rights Reserved, Geology/Geography/Oceanography/Atmospheric Sciences, Introduction to Oceanography Homework Help, View All Geology/Geography/Oceanography/Atmospheric Sciences Subjects. The height of a wave depends upon: fetch, wind, duration, and wind speed. shallow-water wave The movement of air across the ocean surface creates ____ waves. A) gravity waves. 5.4 A) form where there is a moderately steep, sloping bottom. If the bottom is very steep, a plunging wave becomes a collapsing wave, when the top of the wave breaks onto the lower part of the wave. 48.The diameter of a wave orbital at the surface is equal to _________. Waves that are breaking along the shore and are. 5.3. Rip currents are narrow, river-like currents that flow perpendicular to the coast, heading out to sea (Fig. a. boulders, rocks, clay b. gravel, sand, mud c. lithogenous, hydrogenous, biogenous d. conglomerate, sandstone, shale e. igneous. What is difference between in vivo and in vitro? 5.19). OCE1001 Chapter 8 - Subjecto.com How long does muscle soreness take to go away? Fig. Is respiration endothermic or endothermic? Using your knowledge of breaking waves and wave properties, investigate why certain surf breaks are good for surfing. How does wave refraction at headlands affect deposition and erosion? -When two waves that are 180 degrees out-of-phase interfere. The time between two successive waves is called the. What type of sediment is the most abundant by volume? That is a practical application of utilizing the ____________________. Which of the following from earliest to latest represents the typical wave formation? Two most abundant dissolved substances in seawater are? Sediment layer with larger particles on the bottom and finer particles toward the top. As the bay is surrounded by land, one can come across calmer waters than the oceans. Clay Minerals This means that the bathymetry (the underwater elevation) of the ocean or sea bed also impacts the strength of waves. What is the major mechanism by which ocean surface waves are generated? -Waves with shorter periods have longer wavelengths. Standing waves may be caused by _____. Spilling breakers (Fig. You can use the same procedure to make a profile of the area outside your classroom. A wave train is caused by wave energy moving more slowly than individual waves. Waves converge on headlands due to: wave refraction. The angular distance of the Sun or the Moon above or below the Earth's equatorial plane is called the ________. e.wave refraction. the supply of new sand to replenish beaches is cut off Definition. Who did varane play for?Manchester United F.C.#19 / DefenderFrance national football tea#4 / Defender. Correct Answer: Access For Free Review Later Choose question tag Which of the following, from earliest to latest, represents the typical wave "life"? From organic remains of marine life, primarily plankton organisms and algae. The ratio of wave height to wavelength is called the: Waves that are moving faster than local wind and are sorted out by wavelength are called: The speed of a deep-water wave is proportional to: Tsunami travel as deep-water waves over the open ocean. The height of a wave depends upon ________. 5.10). A wave may break more than once, and in different ways, as it advances to shore. A tsunami may result from: Tectonic activity on the seafloor A tsunami is considered to be a: The time it takes for a full wave to pass a stationary object is called the wave: Period. Waves that are moving faster than local wind and are sorted out by wavelength are called ________. D) wave reflection. orbital waves. A coastal geostrophic current is influenced by all of the following except: Coastal wetlands are important because they: b. are important nursery grounds for fish and other organisms. wave reflection. a.at a density boundary within the ocean. -Superwaves Of the following statements about ocean waves, which is/are true? d.wave reflection. Over 100 people die each year in the U.S. in rip currents and they account for over 80% of rescues performed by surf beach lifeguards. Wind blowing across the surface of the ocean. There are three types of breaking waves: plunging breakers, spilling breakers, and surging breakers. Density differences; differences in salinity and temperature. -Shipwrecker waves Of the following waves, which one has the deepest wave base? Wind speed, direction, and fetch all contribute to creating waves and swell. The speed of a shallow-water wave is proportional to ________. -When waves with identical wavelengths interfere. - Wave speed is equal to wavelength divided by period. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); We are largest Know-How Listing website, total [total_posts] questions already asked and get answers instantly! These three wave types are shown in Fig. Longshore currents flow roughly parallel to the beach (Fig. Which ocean is associated with most tsunamis? -When waves with short wavelengths interfere. Image courtesy of Cecilia and Randy Lascody, from National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA). Using the above figure and what you learned in class, which body produces the largest tidal bulge on Earth? As water gets shallower and waves travel more slowly, their wavelength decreases. The largest wind-generated waves tend to be associated with the: The speed of a shallow-water wave is proportional to: How does water move as waves pass? test 2 Flashcards | Chegg.com What is a drawback of seawalls? Other physical processes, such as wind, tides, and storms can also shape the features of a beach. -the closest distance a wave can get to shore before breaking, the lower limit of wave-induced motion in the water. Large deposits of sediment at the mouths of rivers are called. b.rise in sea level due to a large weight of glacier on a continental mass. Alternating layers of hard and soft rock allow the sea to erode the soft rock faster, forming a bay but leaving hard rock sticking out, known as a headland. 5.19). -Water moves in a circle in the direction opposite to wave movement. Landforms and beach slope can be affected by waves. -Pure constructive interference, Which of the following are names for large ocean waves that can be created by constructive interference? Internal waves are formed by the movement of water of different densities along an air-water interface. 5.9 A). As waves slow down, they get closer together; their wave period shortens. Waves converge on headlands due to ________. Why are groins installed in such large numbers along the coast? Select only one answer. Explore our library and get Introduction to Oceanography Homework Help with various study sets and a huge amount of quizzes and questions, Find all the solutions to your textbooks, reveal answers you wouldt find elsewhere, Scan any paper and upload it to find exam solutions and many more, Studying is made a lot easier and more fun with our online flashcards, Try out our new practice tests completely, 2020-2023 Quizplus LLC. c.contain more sediment than summer beaches due to high energy waves during the winter. waves converge on the headlands due to wave refraction. You might want to use a calculator for this. Your email address will not be published. D)wave reflection. People can be found watching and riding waves worldwide, from Japan to Spain to Africa to the great lakes of North America. Use Advanced Search to search by activities, standards, and more. Surging breakers (Fig. -The waves have longer wavelength just in front of the headland, causing the waves to bend. -Wave amplitude increases as depth increases. The diameter of a wave orbital at the surface is equal to: The area where wind-driven waves are generated is called the sea or sea area. It issues tsunami warnings to 25 Pacific rim nations . E) wave diffraction. Oceanography Exam 2 Dubbs Flashcards | Quizlet Waves converge on headlands due to: Wave refraction Which of the following from earliest to latest represents the typical order of formation of waves: Sea, swell, surf. Based on the graph, which of the following has the lowest temperature? -the distance between consecutive wave crests or troughs Waves converge on headlands due to: Wave refraction Which of the following from earliest to latest represents the typical order of formation of waves: Sea, swell, surf. In addition, the bottom contour has a dramatic effect on the shape of breaking waves. 5.20). Popular surf destinations tend to be located in geographic regions that are in a position to be regularly impacted by swells. b.destructive interference. C. gravity wave d. Earth only has only one tidal bulge facing either the Sun or the Moon. The vertical distance between a wave and a wave trough is called the ____. Landforms and beach slope can also affect waves, currents, and the movement of water. -The wavelength of the wave must be contained within a larger water column in shallow water. Fig. 2003-2023 Chegg Inc. All rights reserved. The gravitational attraction among the Earth, Moon, and Sun. Deep ocean circulation is driven primarily by __________. D. wind OCE1001 Exam 2 Flashcards Of the following physical changes that occur to waves as they move into shallow water, which is/are true? Rogue waves are generated by destructive interference patterns of ocean swells. d.high nutrient levels associated with tidally mixed ocean water. d.The gravitational attraction just between the Earth and Moon. . waves converge on the headlands due to wave refraction, they bounce wave energy back across the beach and cause erosion, When waves approach the shore and enter shallow water, the waves slow down and the wave height increases, seacliffs are exposed to wave action, and they are also steep slopes, which can make them susceptible to landslides. The altering rate of erosion of hard and soft rock is known as differential erosion. ESCI 101- Oceanography Portion- Section 2 - Chegg The graph shown is an example of which of the following tidal patterns? Of the following statements about tsunami, which is/are true? where storm waves move against strong surface currents. Cold currents flowing ___ on the ___ sides of continents produce arid conditions. Weathering of the crust produces sediment and. -The waves have shorter wavelength just in front of the headland, causing the waves to bend. Ions from chemical weathering of the crust Plunging breakers (Fig. wave, generated by a closed TRM, which con-verges to its source, is always followed by a spatially diverging wave due to energy flux conservation. forms when electrons are transferred from one atom to another. 5.21. Water waves are refracted as they move from deep water to shallow water. 5.21). What is rotational slumping A level geography? a. is a function of the wind direction. -Wave period is the inverse of wave height. -the bending of waves due to a change in wave velocity -The energy of the wave must be contained within a smaller water column in shallow water. Wave speed is equal to: . Of the following statements about ocean waves, which one(s) describe wave period? Discordant coastline occurs where bands of differing rock type run perpendicular to the coast. The uplift of downdropping of large areas of the sea floor creates ____ waves. Smaller waves tend to break in shallower water, closer to shore. Wave refraction at the headland increases erosion at the headland and causes deposition in adjacent bays. siliceous ooze (SiO2, plankton shells). on the continental rise by a turbidity current (under water landslide). Waves that are breaking along the shore and are forming a curling crest over an. How might global warming exacerbate coastal hazards? Spilling breakers form when fast-moving water at the top of a wave spills over slower-moving water at the bottom. Water flowing out of an enclosed basin due to the tides is called a/an ________. 5.2. A)constructive interference.B)destructive interference.C)wave diffraction.D)wave reflection.E)wave refraction. Remains of ancient rocks of cosmic origin. molecule has a positive and negative charge. -a gently sloping rocky bottom -the time it takes for one wavelength of a wave to pass a particular point Constructive interference results in larger waves while destructive interference produces: Large coastal storms such as hurricanes initially cause all of the following except: Among the physical factors that affect the magnitude of a gravitational force between two objects, which is most important? B. fetch, wind duration, and wind speed, A. the distance over which the wind blows without interruption, B. a method of shoreline erosion control, C. the distance between the trough of a wave and the still water level, D. the circular pattern made by water particles when a wave passes. Make Print-Friendly, When you're ready to print, just click this button: Of the following statements about ocean waves, which one(s) describe wave steepness? Waves are usually smaller, but choppier, in the area of a rip current. Wave steepness increases. As a wave begins to feel bottom near a shoreline, its wave height: The speed of a shallow- water wave is proportional to: A deep-water wave occurs when the water depth is greater than: Wave energy is focused on headlands due to wave refraction. All of the following are lithogenous sediments except: Sediments that are very poorly sorted were most likely deposited by: Sediment that begins as rocks on continents or islands id called: Emerging shorelines might have all of the following characteristics expect: Large deposits of sediment at the mouths of rivers are called: All of the following are typically characteristic of erosional shores except: Sediment is supplied to the coastal zone by: Coastal erosion, local biological activity, and rivers, Rock Fragments A rip current is strongest at its neck, where the currents merge and flow back to sea through a deeper channel (Fig. What is the crest of a wave? c.wave diffraction. Which of the following is the only current that completely circumscribes Earth? Waves that are breaking along the shore and are forming curling crests over air pockets are called: The circular motion of water molecules extends to a depth that is equal to: "Whitecaps" form when _____________________. Choose the one best answer from the choices provided. Suggest a correction? -When waves with large amplitudes interfere. An estuary formed from a flooded glacial valley is called a: An estuary produced by faulting or folding of rocks that creates a dropped-down section into which a river flows is called a: The large outflow of the Columbia River into the Pacific Ocean, causes: Which physical factor(s) influence(s) the surface circulation patterns in marginal seas? Along irregular shorelines, waves also refract, but tend to converge on headlands, causing erosion of sediments . 17. Submarines sometimes ride out heavy storms in deep water by submerging. -Water moves linearly in the same direction as wave movement. a. Global warming will likely be accompanied by sea level rise. The content and activities in this topic will work towards building an understanding wave patterns in water and how water wave action affects and is affected by nearshore and coastal features. Buried sediment on the continental shelf. If the process of speciation appears to occur relatively rapidly, why don't we see new species evolving all the time? -the bending of waves due to a change in wave amplitude A deep-water wave occurs when the water depth is equal to at least ________. Which type of current flow moves in a circular path around a subtropical convergence, reflecting Ekman transport, gravity, and the Coriolis effect? Waves are a type of erosion. -Wave refraction at the headland increases erosion at the headland and causes deposition in adjacent bays. If caught in a rip current, it is best to swim parallel to shore, until you are out of the rip current, before swimming toward shore. 5.3). The speed of a shallow-water wave is a function of wave period. Exam 4 Answers for the Final Flashcards | Chegg.com wave refraction. An eddy is a circular, whirlpool-like, movement of water (Fig. -the highest part of the wave -The waves are moving faster just in front of the headland, causing the waves to bend. 5.4 B) form when the bottom slopes gradually. A. winds blowing across the ocean surface, B. density differences between water layers, A. at the boundary between the ocean and the seafloor, B. close to shore as it moves into shallow water, D. at the boundary between the atmosphere and the ocean, E. at a density boundary within the ocean. A curling wave formed over an air pocket is called a plunging breaker. -the time it takes for one wavelength of a wave to pass a particular point -the bending of waves due to a change in wavelength, -the bending of waves due to a change in wave velocity. Waves do not break as often in the gap where the rip current forms because the gap is deeper than the surrounding areas. However, local weather does determine the conditions of waves that are produced by far-away storms. Fig. Considering that Earth is closest to the Sun during the northern hemispheres winter, which statement must be true? the time it takes for one full wavelength to pass a given point. Lithogenous, Biogenous, Hydrogenous, Cosmogenous. 51 Waves converge on headlands due to a constructive interference b Ooids, shallow water near shoe, warm water, gentle waves. has very high high tides and very low low tides. The wave fronts appear to bend around the edge of each of the barriers. d.contain less sediment than summer beaches due to low energy waves during the winter. MS-ESS2-2 Construct an explanation based on evidence for how geoscience processes have changed Earth's surface at varying time and spatial scales. If the force on an object is in the negative direction, the work it does on the object must be? Will Xbox Series X ever be in stock again? orthogonals that become more closely spaced as they approach the shore. The vertical difference between consecutive high and low tides is called the ________. 58. 5.9. 5.19. Basically, waves made beaches, headlands,. d.close to shore as it moves into shallow water. 23. The El Nio Southern Oscillation can best be described as ____. -Wave amplitude decreases as depth increases. -The energy of the wave must be contained within a smaller water column in shallow water. -Waves in phase have identical wavelengths and are aligned peak-to-trough and trough-to-peak -the distance between the highest and lowest part of the wave Why do waves converge on headlands? - Answers The average water depth between your island and Japan is 4900 m. If a tsunami warning is issued for your island, how many hours will you have before the waves arrive? e.volcanic activity resulting in the formation of new continental crust. Fig. the seafloor has an trough located just offshore andparallel to the beach offshore sand bars block some of the wave energy a depression or shallow channel runs offshore from the beach there are headlands along the coast the first part of each wave crest starts to break School Acadia University; Course Title GEOL 1003; Type. the wave pattern produce when two or more waves interact. An eddy about 600 km off the coast of Australia in the southeastern Indian Ocean, which was made visible by a plankton bloom on December 30, 2013 that showed sea surface currents. about half way between high and low tides. Marine sediments are classified by size broadly as __________. When will perfect destructive interference occur? Why does the wave height of a tsunami increase as the tsunami enters shallow water? Fig. Waves come into shore and break parallel to the coast because ocean floor topography is generally similar to the shape of the beach. The Pacific Tsunami Warning Center (PTWC) was established in 1946 to coordinate data from seismic waves in the Pacific Ocean and around the Pacific rim. gravitational, Moon, Sun A vast majority of all large tsunami are generated in the ____ ocean. c. Earth rotates into and out of tidal bulges.